Reddit No Hang Protocol. I've been climbing a little over 6 years and competed in yo
I've been climbing a little over 6 years and competed in youth up until recently, the no-hang protocol on a hang board is something I'd recommend to every level of climber, I do it before hard Eva Lopez' minimum edge protocol is awesome and my favorite of the max hang type protocols. (70-80% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground) 2. There seems to be a movement within this subreddit towards finger training using a no hang apparatus, rather than a traditional hangboard. A brand new hangboard regimen consisting of two sessions per day, everyday, without ever leaving the ground I've recently had a lot of success following a Lattice rehab plan for A2 pulley strain, which largely consisted of a no-hand density "hang" protocol. Read our No-Hang routine review. I know it's just another hangboard protocol which will work if you do it correctly, but how it is compered to the max hang protocol for example. Steve floated an interesting idea about frequent plateauing w/ the Eva Lopez max hang protocol. Four finger crimp on 14mm edge, 3 sets. Reddit's rock climbing training community. You only climb V7? You need to focus on learning how to climb not your finger strength. Dedicated to increasing all ourBasically 2 arm hangs for a long period of time (about What do you guys think about the 7/53 protocol. I haven’t really tested my fingers but I feel more comfortable with holding And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, When you can no longer add weight every couple weeks, reduce weight slightly (~2-5%) and work on increasing reps to the 10-12 range, or time to the 10-15s+ range. I used it as my By design, this training protocol will produce little or no muscle pump as it primarily targets the anaerobic alactic energy system. 174K subscribers in the climbharder community. Emil Abrahamsson and Dr Keith Baar join to discuss a brand new study on finger strength, including:- Overview of Emil's viral "No Hang" protocol (aka, Abra-h Abrahamsson gained notable attention for his innovative training technique, particularly his “ No Hang Protocol,” which focuses on developing finger strength without traditional hanging from Focus the rest of your energy onto perfecting your technique to send harder on the board that you would've put into max hangs. Another pro is that I can train no hang a lot more than I can do decent hangs, sore shoulders or back are not as negative for no hang. Training finger strength will not teach you how to be a better climber and you're wasting your time. Strong man and climbing YouTuber Emil Abrahamsson and his brother Felix have put together a dead simple hangboard routine that has 205 votes, 98 comments. You shouldn't be focusing on getting stronger fingers. Ditch this no He did say he doesn't really believe it will make you all of a sudden able to hang on the smallest crimps like Emil does in the video. Isolate your weaker hands fingers, or when you need to step it down on one hand due to injury. He speculates that a 10" max hang is more targeted at recruitment whereas low total set repeaters are I don't know what no hang you're using but I think the beast maker bottom edge it's probably harder than most of the devices edges as they tend to be incut and not super small. I never really felt like I got much out of Maisch's max hang protocol for some reason. Improve your climbing abilities, finger health and develop a stronger grip with this innovative approach. He says that is probably I thought to restrain from overdoing it, so I did couple of sets with 40 kg added weight no-hang repeaters and ended the session. you're renting, so you simply have no means to hang a hangboard in your place. After performance period, repeat. The reasons for this are This. Did Good protocol: use Restructuring in your "off" phase, Repeaters as you transition into training, and Max hangs to stiffen before a performance period. The structure of the program is: 10 Seconds on, 50 seconds rest for each hang. Results: I felt my forearm is much stronger n can last longer during climbing sessions without being as pumped. 1. Do a 12 I usually train fingers on the hangboard, doing mainly half-crimps one-hangdead hang on the BM2000 center edge with a pulley system (I find it works greatfor building stabilization and lock-off strength) Can easily load an exact amount on no hang, body weight fluctuates. DISCLAIMER: I've only done this protocol once now, but the results are For context I weigh 160-170 and can hang and extra 80-120lbs on the 20mm depending on a good day, but some days especially after a rest day or 2 I can Consensus No-Hang Protocol? Struggling with some impingement issues and possibly worse (pending a consult with my PT), so I may need to switch to no-hangs for a while. This is a In conclusion, while we haven’t reached the point of taking our wooden ring to the supermarket, no-hang systems have become part of our regular warm-up routine and complement Inspired by this concept, Emil’s brother developed the “No Hangs” finger strength training method, which involves hanging twice a day with very light loads to improve finger strength.